I have my local correspondent Gail from furnishings international to thank for the heads up on the article in the Houston Chronicle about a new joint called Gatlin’s Barbecue. Allison Cook, the author of the piece, says “Gatlin’s is a new Houston barbecue classic.”
The article goes into great detail about pitmaster Charles Clark’s techniques as well as overall restaurant vibe. It reads, “To my pleasure, I found that the lean brisket was still moist enough, the fatty brisket meltingly supple and the smoke flavor quiet but insistent. With the toasty bread, pickled chile and savory onion, the sandwich really required no sauce.” That makes me hungry just reading this. She adds later, “the holy Texas trinity of brisket, ribs and sausage seem wonderfully reliable here.”
Allison writes further, “He takes his time. Which is what good barbecue is all about. So don’t come here expecting a quick turnaround. Service is methodical; even slow.” You’ve got to read the article yourself (check it here), but since I’m a huge fan of dirty rice, this little paragraph really got to me. “Gatlin’s dirty rice was actually dirty, which is to say it had the requisite liver-y, giblet-y funk. It was neither shy nor polite. It promised good things on which the fledgling mom-pop-and-son restaurant proceeded to deliver.”
Now a fan of Allison Cook’s writing, I found she has a blog. Read it here, it’ll make you hungry.
Check out Gatlin’s Barbecue yourself here:
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